Chemical Exfoliants – Which active ingredient is right for my skin?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), poly hydroxy acids (PHA), and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are the three different types of chemical exfoliants. Exfoliation works to break the bonds that hold dead skin cells together on the surface of the skin otherwise known as the epidermis.

This act promotes cell turnover and can help with everything from smoothing texture to brightening hyperpigmentation, controlling oil production to calm acne and inflammation. By exfoliating your skin, you also help your other products, like serums and moisturizers, penetrate your skin more effectively. I like to use the analogy of skin to a croissant. The outer layer of a croissant is crisp and dry while the inside layers are soft and soft. If you try to apply a serum to the crunchy outer layer, it will sit on top, but if you apply a serum to the softer inner layers, it will travel to the other layers of the croissant deeper and faster. Skin is similar in this regard, and exfoliating the dead, dull outer layer ensures your other products are as effective as possible.

Chemical exfoliants differ from physical exfoliants because instead of manually using a tool or product to loosen those bonds, chemical exfoliants instead use active ingredients. But not all chemical exfoliants are the same, which is why it's important to know the differences so you can choose which type of chemical exfoliant is right for you and your specific skin concerns.

AHA: alpha hydroxy acids

AHAs penetrate the deepest of the three types of acids we are discussing in this post. They are great for helping to even out skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots caused by free radicals and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by breakouts. They also work to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, making them especially useful for mature skin. AHAs are water soluble and help retain moisture that damaged skin often needs. Lactic acid also acts as a humectant and draws moisture into the skin. Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids are some of the most common types of AHAs.

PHA: Polyhydroxy acids

PHAs are amazing for sensitive skin. They have a broader molecular structure than AHAs and BHAs, which means they cannot reach the deeper layers of the skin and ultimately remain on the surface. PHAs have been shown to work well with compromised skin types such as those with conditions such as eczema and rosacea. PHAs are also humectants, so they help retain moisture to keep skin plump. Some of the most common forms are gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose.

BHA: beta hydroxy acids

You may have heard of salicylic acid, the most commonly used type of BHA. BHAs are oil soluble. This makes them unique in that they can penetrate the skin's natural oils and penetrate pores to exfoliate and "de-gunk" helping to visibly reduce blackheads and acne while dissolving the oil. BHAs have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making them great for oily and acne-prone skin.

Adding a chemical exfoliant to your routine can be a way to quickly see visible changes in your skin. It's important to remember to incorporate acids slowly so as not to over-exfoliate the skin and leave a damaged skin barrier.

We recommend starting with these active ingredients 1-2 times a week and working your way up from there depending on how your skin reacts. If you notice redness or irritation, you should reduce use or take a break. Overuse can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it's very important to always use a broad-spectrum SPF during the day during treatment.

There are products that have been specially formulated to include blends of various types of active ingredients to effectively exfoliate and “pluck” pores while ensuring your skin stays hydrated. The balance of acids helps ensure that the skin's natural moisture barrier remains healthy and strong during effective chemical exfoliation.